Archive for the ‘a gardening problem’ Category

Japanese Beetles: A List For Destruction

Japanese beetles in the process of decimating my soybeans. They must be stopped.

For the last couple weeks, Japanese beetles have been making their seasonal appearance, and now they have crashed our party in vast numbers. Boldly strutting into our gardens like they own the place, rudely eating what is not meant for them, and offensively humping on every available surface. It’s like an 80′s coke party except these assholes are stone-cold sober.

The Japanese beetles are an invasive species, and are very capable of destroying many different types of plants. In my gardens they are particular to my grape vine and my soybeans. The beetles start out as grubs that hatch from eggs below the soil surface.

There are a number of things you can do to limit the populations. I am personally against the use of insecticides for the adult beetles that can also harm other insects (not to mention my food), so taking that into account, here is my list, in order of my most preferred, to least preferred:

List for Japanese Beetle Destruction

1. A bucket of soapy water, and knock the beetles in.

My bucket o’ death.

I hate to get all high-tech on you, but the beetles are generally slow to take flight, and in a typical home garden a daily (or every-few-days if you’re like me) walk through will be enough to avoid catastrophe. I keep my bucket of water perpetually on the porch so that I can just grab it quickly when I’m walking by. This was my sole approach last year and was happy with the results. This year I’ve noticed some of the beetles are more willing and able to fly away. Has anyone else noticed this?

2. Parasitic Nematodes.

There are species of nematodes that feed on the grubs. Locally, I’ve known Bachman’s to have nematodes in stock, and suppliers on Amazon.com have nematodes, as well. You apply the nematodes to the soil at night, and then keep the soil moist to keep them alive. Keep in mind you’ll just be reducing the grubs in your yard, and some beetles can (and will) fly in from elsewhere.

3. Plant geraniums!

Geranium flowers can be deadly to the Japanese beetle. A particular amino acid in a geranium flower that causes paralysis of the Japanese beetle is identified in this study, and you can watch the paralysis here. This blogger has had success controlling Japanese beetles with geraniums.

4. Pheromone traps.

Pheromone traps use scents to attract Japanese beetles from surrounding areas, at which point you drown them as in #1, or kill them some other way. There is much disagreement about this approach, because it does seem that the trap attracts more beetles to your area without being able to trap all of them. However, I am of the opinion that I’d rather attract them from a neighbor who chooses not to control their populations and just control the population myself. This is an example pheromone trap on Amazon.com: Japanese Beetle Trap.

5. Milky Spore Disease.

This is a bacteria that you can introduce to the soil that does not affect beneficial insects, but causes disease in the Japanese beetle grubs. I just saw some at my Ace Hardware store. The U of M Extension and at least one entomologist at Ohio State says that recent trials show milky spore has not been particularly effective.

Hippie: 1; Squash Vine Borer: 0

Once the symptoms actually show, its too late :(

Squash vine borer season has commenced, which means for the next month I will be eying my squash plants with great suspicion.

Yesterday I actually did find a squash vine borer egg on my uchiki kuri squash plant at the community garden. I see this as a good thing, because now I know what they look like in real life…last year I only caught the disastrous result after the eggs had hatched and it was too late. I didn’t have a camera with me at the time I found the egg, but it was small, brown, oval and flat, and needed a bit of pressure to remove it from the underside of the leaf of the plant. It also required a bit of pressure to CRUSH IT and a bit of energy to laugh with glee at its destruction.

This is what the little assholes look like.

The squash vine borer eggs hatch in only 7-10 days, which means I’ll be checking my squash plants every four days for the next month or so. I’m also going to try covering some of the plants with a floating row cover to prevent the adults from landing on them in the first place. How have other people out there dealt with the squash vine borer?

1978 Urban Gardening Definition

1978 Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening

Thanks to the Book ‘Em Sale this year, I’ve acquired the beginnings of a gardening library for pennies on the dollar. The book I’ve been most obsessed with is this 1978 Encyclopedia of Organic gardening. Thirty-four-years-old doesn’t seem so old for a gardening book.  :)

In any case, I thought I’d post their definition of Urban Gardening:

In recent years, many people have discovered that gardening in the city is not simply fun, but is economical and produces better-quality food that is available in stores. Surprising yields of vegetables can be obtained from an intensively gardened, postage stamp-size backyard, and fruits and vegetables can be grown in contained on the roof, balcony or front porch. Some people manage to keep livestock in their backyards or on a roof; pigeons, chickens, bees, and rabbits can all be raised in the city if health codes allow and if the animals are not a nuisance to their human neighbors.

Although city gardening is similar in some ways to gardening in the country, it does require some special skills. Although city gardening has its disadvantages, one can learn to manipulate the microclimate of plants, in order to produce food over a longer period of time than would be possible in the country. By necessity, city gardeners learn to grow more produce in less space, increasing the theoretical productivity per acre.

There are many ways to maximize outdoor space for more efficient vegetable production. Use window boxed to grow small plants such are herbs, radishes, carrots, and onions. Plant vegetables such as lettuce, that, when cut, will continue to reproduce. Stick to compact varieties of plants that do not shade our other areas of the garden and avoid planting crops along a north wall. Build trellises or fences to utilize vertical space for plants such as tomatoes, peas, squashes, cucumbers, and beans.

Interplant slow- and fast-growing vegetables: the fast-growing vegetables will be harvested before they can crowd slower-growing plants. See also Intensive Gardening.

Some urbanites are fortunate enough to live in a city that has a community garden program In many localities throughout the country, city governments, social agencies, industry, public institutions, churches, and private individuals have made land available to gardeners in their cities, often at no expense to the gardeners. Such programs are proving to be increasingly popular as the cost of food increases, and people seeking to raise their own food should investigate their own communities to see if there is already a community garden project there, or should try to initiate one on public land that is currently not being used.

For you urban-gardeners out there, what do you do to maximize your space? My main approach is to use trellises pretty heavily, but other than that I’m not sure there’s much else that I do. Leave a comment with your ideas!

Hippie-Food Covered in Insulation Circa 1950

I’m glad this happened after the garden tour…

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Work it, Girl! (Uh, Unless the Soil is Wet)

Yesterday I was telling my friend, Phenom, how the rain has been killing me, because the soil has been wet for over a week, and will likely continue to be wet for at least the next week, so I can’t get in and prepared the rest of the beds because you aren’t supposed to work the soil when it’s wet. She started at me blankly and suggested that maybe this would be a good blog post. So here it is.

The rule does seem a little random. Like something competitive gardening-types would say to everyone loudly, and then turn around and secretly work in thunderstorms when no one is watching. And then laugh with their friends over tea as their gardens flourish while everyone else is left scratching their heads with lame gardens.

But after some research, I can assure you that it is true: Do not work the soil when it is wet.

Garden soil ideally has a porous structure. When the soil is wet, and you start moving it around, it becomes much more dense, becoming impermeable to air, water, and even the plant root system. Yesterday I was paging through this book: Plant Propagation in Pictures, and the author demonstrates how seeds will not even germinate in soil that has been worked when wet.

If you were impatient this year, the gardening nerds at Cornell (I say this with love) have a great article for you.

From my own experience with compact soils, I can say that adding vermiculite to my perennial raised bed has completely improved the health of all the plants therein, without adding any new soil or compost. In 2010, when I built the raised bed, I just hauled in compost, but was too lazy to add in vermiculite in the first place, thinking that it wouldn’t be a big deal. This spring I finally got to it, and the change is extreme. What used to be tiny little strawberry plants have turned into ginormous monsters.

It looks like wet, compacted soil may be a problem in my community garden plot. Hopefully by the time the soil dries out for me to work on it, my plants at ground level, on the left, will still be alive!

Dandelion Graveyard

The result of my neighbor’s deathcapade:

I hate to see healthy, yummy greens destroyed for a random decision about aesthetics. RIP, you bad-ass dandelions, you.

The impact on my lawn was relatively small, but visible…and not to mention irritating.

The worst impact was on my currant bush, which also shows the curled leaves found on the other plants.

The mustard seedlings are curled the same way as the dandelion stems.

The three leaves of the fava bean are curled, also, which also looks to be impact from the food-killer.

Precisely *Not* the Sign a Hippie wants to see in her Next Door Neighbor’s Lawn.

If I were to, say, pick out a sign that I do not want to see in my next door neighbors lawn, this would be it:

It’s like they read my mind.

Tomatoes!

Last June Fresh Air aired an interview with Barry Estabrook based on Barry Estabrook‘s book Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit.  I meant to write a post about it back then, but laziness got the best of me. Don’t judge.

I have not read the book, but the interview with Estabrook was endlessly fascinating.  I guess anyone who has made the mistake of purchasing a tomato in the winter from a big box grocery store knows how actual garden tomatoes don’t even compare, but it sounds like his book tells us why this is the case.  Much of the reason is through breeding and development that favors ship-ability, volume, and attractiveness of the fruit rather than nutrition and taste, and another reason is inhospitable climates that the tomatoes are grown in.  He also delves into the horrendous labor practices in the tomato industry, and how some growers have been successfully prosecuted for having slaves.  I learned a bunch of other stuff, too, but I’m trying to keep this post to a palatable length.

I had always assumed that tomatoes are grown in Florida because the climate is perfect for them, but apparently this is not the case.  The humidity is actually really bad for the tomato plants, and so the farmers are resigned to constantly spraying their crops so as to prevent mildew and disease problems that would naturally arise.  Estabrook has identified 100 different herbicides and pesticides that are recommended for farmers in Florida to use on one crop of tomatoes.

Thinking back to my own experience with tomatoes, it makes sense that Florida is not ideal.  Our summers here are much shorter than Florida, but it still gets very humid.  By the end of the 2010 summer year all my tomato plants were a pretty sad sight from the powdery mildew that I was unable to control.  Last year it was less of a problem because I did a few things differently:

1. watered early in the day.

2. avoided water on the leaves of the plants while watering.

3. spaced the plants properly.

4. Got lucky.

Hippie has a Garden-Induced Panick Attack

On Midmorning this morning a master gardener told me that if I have hard green tomatoes on my tomato plant, it’s too late  :(    I am reluctant to acknowledge this, and am trying to keep positive based on last year’s mid-October tomato harvest:

But now I am thinking about all the vegetables I may not get a harvest from at all: cucumbers, pole beans, summer squash (okay, there’s one fruit on the plant, but that’s it), okra, bitter melon, five tomato plants (brandywine, martian giant, persimmon, wapsipinicom peach, zapotec, cherokee purple), rocoto pepper, soybeans, corn, watermelon, and probably a few more that I just am not thinking of right now.

Also, my reisetomate is having an identity crisis.  This is what the fruit is looking like:

which, incidentally, looks nothing like these.

One of my corn stalks has started shedding pollen, and all the corn appears to be a decent height, but I can’t find any of the silks that are supposed to be pollinated (here is information I found about corn pollination).

It looks like, in Minnesota last week, 95% of the crop corn was silking.  This puts my corn at least a week behind the norm, which I guess is not terrible, considering my shady yard.  I guess the decider will be whether I get any ears.

Only 50% of the crop soybeans are setting pods in MN.  I would love to just get a few from my plants.

Sigh.

Murder Solved; Squash Bore Denies, but Lets out a Telltale Burp

I’ve lost 8 of my 11 squash plants over the last two weeks and could not figure out why.  I Google’d the crap out of “squash troubleshooting” and, decided that is must bacterial wilt, although the diagnosis troubled me because my squash is spread out across four different planting beds, and I removed much of the existing soil and replaced it with different kinds of high quality compost.  For whatever reason, I completely neglected to consider the possibility it was actually a pest problem.  Even after rescuing the one baby buttercup squash and finding this ugly thing:

I just assumed that maybe a larvae worked it’s way in because the plant was on the decline…instead of what I should have assumed.  That the larvae IS the enemy.

But yesterday I had the great pleasure of meeting Susane Moua, the founder of City Backyard Farming, LLC.  In addition to getting to see the gorgeous mini-farm, I told her about my squash plight, and she dragged me over to a couple of her squash plants that looked, sadly, much like mine:

Can you see the bore in the left side of the stem???

The most obvious, sign seems to be the orange bore poop called “frass“.

My summer squash plant seems to be strong and healthy at this point, but this morning after poking around it I did find a squash bore hole:

Squash Vine Borer Information from the UMN Extension and Harvest to Table article on Squash Troubleshooting both indicate that I might be able to save the plant by cutting the stem to remove the bore(s) and hilling soil over the damage.  Hopefully that little shithead doesn’t kill the plant by the time I get home from work tonight.

After all these ugly pics, I have to add this one from this morning of a cute little pollinator working away  :)

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