Posts Tagged ‘problems’

Japanese Beetles: A List For Destruction

Japanese beetles in the process of decimating my soybeans. They must be stopped.

For the last couple weeks, Japanese beetles have been making their seasonal appearance, and now they have crashed our party in vast numbers. Boldly strutting into our gardens like they own the place, rudely eating what is not meant for them, and offensively humping on every available surface. It’s like an 80′s coke party except these assholes are stone-cold sober.

The Japanese beetles are an invasive species, and are very capable of destroying many different types of plants. In my gardens they are particular to my grape vine and my soybeans. The beetles start out as grubs that hatch from eggs below the soil surface.

There are a number of things you can do to limit the populations. I am personally against the use of insecticides for the adult beetles that can also harm other insects (not to mention my food), so taking that into account, here is my list, in order of my most preferred, to least preferred:

List for Japanese Beetle Destruction

1. A bucket of soapy water, and knock the beetles in.

My bucket o’ death.

I hate to get all high-tech on you, but the beetles are generally slow to take flight, and in a typical home garden a daily (or every-few-days if you’re like me) walk through will be enough to avoid catastrophe. I keep my bucket of water perpetually on the porch so that I can just grab it quickly when I’m walking by. This was my sole approach last year and was happy with the results. This year I’ve noticed some of the beetles are more willing and able to fly away. Has anyone else noticed this?

2. Parasitic Nematodes.

There are species of nematodes that feed on the grubs. Locally, I’ve known Bachman’s to have nematodes in stock, and suppliers on Amazon.com have nematodes, as well. You apply the nematodes to the soil at night, and then keep the soil moist to keep them alive. Keep in mind you’ll just be reducing the grubs in your yard, and some beetles can (and will) fly in from elsewhere.

3. Plant geraniums!

Geranium flowers can be deadly to the Japanese beetle. A particular amino acid in a geranium flower that causes paralysis of the Japanese beetle is identified in this study, and you can watch the paralysis here. This blogger has had success controlling Japanese beetles with geraniums.

4. Pheromone traps.

Pheromone traps use scents to attract Japanese beetles from surrounding areas, at which point you drown them as in #1, or kill them some other way. There is much disagreement about this approach, because it does seem that the trap attracts more beetles to your area without being able to trap all of them. However, I am of the opinion that I’d rather attract them from a neighbor who chooses not to control their populations and just control the population myself. This is an example pheromone trap on Amazon.com: Japanese Beetle Trap.

5. Milky Spore Disease.

This is a bacteria that you can introduce to the soil that does not affect beneficial insects, but causes disease in the Japanese beetle grubs. I just saw some at my Ace Hardware store. The U of M Extension and at least one entomologist at Ohio State says that recent trials show milky spore has not been particularly effective.

Hippie-Food Covered in Insulation Circa 1950

I’m glad this happened after the garden tour…

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Work it, Girl! (Uh, Unless the Soil is Wet)

Yesterday I was telling my friend, Phenom, how the rain has been killing me, because the soil has been wet for over a week, and will likely continue to be wet for at least the next week, so I can’t get in and prepared the rest of the beds because you aren’t supposed to work the soil when it’s wet. She started at me blankly and suggested that maybe this would be a good blog post. So here it is.

The rule does seem a little random. Like something competitive gardening-types would say to everyone loudly, and then turn around and secretly work in thunderstorms when no one is watching. And then laugh with their friends over tea as their gardens flourish while everyone else is left scratching their heads with lame gardens.

But after some research, I can assure you that it is true: Do not work the soil when it is wet.

Garden soil ideally has a porous structure. When the soil is wet, and you start moving it around, it becomes much more dense, becoming impermeable to air, water, and even the plant root system. Yesterday I was paging through this book: Plant Propagation in Pictures, and the author demonstrates how seeds will not even germinate in soil that has been worked when wet.

If you were impatient this year, the gardening nerds at Cornell (I say this with love) have a great article for you.

From my own experience with compact soils, I can say that adding vermiculite to my perennial raised bed has completely improved the health of all the plants therein, without adding any new soil or compost. In 2010, when I built the raised bed, I just hauled in compost, but was too lazy to add in vermiculite in the first place, thinking that it wouldn’t be a big deal. This spring I finally got to it, and the change is extreme. What used to be tiny little strawberry plants have turned into ginormous monsters.

It looks like wet, compacted soil may be a problem in my community garden plot. Hopefully by the time the soil dries out for me to work on it, my plants at ground level, on the left, will still be alive!

Dandelion Graveyard

The result of my neighbor’s deathcapade:

I hate to see healthy, yummy greens destroyed for a random decision about aesthetics. RIP, you bad-ass dandelions, you.

The impact on my lawn was relatively small, but visible…and not to mention irritating.

The worst impact was on my currant bush, which also shows the curled leaves found on the other plants.

The mustard seedlings are curled the same way as the dandelion stems.

The three leaves of the fava bean are curled, also, which also looks to be impact from the food-killer.

Hippie has a Garden-Induced Panick Attack

On Midmorning this morning a master gardener told me that if I have hard green tomatoes on my tomato plant, it’s too late  :(    I am reluctant to acknowledge this, and am trying to keep positive based on last year’s mid-October tomato harvest:

But now I am thinking about all the vegetables I may not get a harvest from at all: cucumbers, pole beans, summer squash (okay, there’s one fruit on the plant, but that’s it), okra, bitter melon, five tomato plants (brandywine, martian giant, persimmon, wapsipinicom peach, zapotec, cherokee purple), rocoto pepper, soybeans, corn, watermelon, and probably a few more that I just am not thinking of right now.

Also, my reisetomate is having an identity crisis.  This is what the fruit is looking like:

which, incidentally, looks nothing like these.

One of my corn stalks has started shedding pollen, and all the corn appears to be a decent height, but I can’t find any of the silks that are supposed to be pollinated (here is information I found about corn pollination).

It looks like, in Minnesota last week, 95% of the crop corn was silking.  This puts my corn at least a week behind the norm, which I guess is not terrible, considering my shady yard.  I guess the decider will be whether I get any ears.

Only 50% of the crop soybeans are setting pods in MN.  I would love to just get a few from my plants.

Sigh.

Murder Solved; Squash Bore Denies, but Lets out a Telltale Burp

I’ve lost 8 of my 11 squash plants over the last two weeks and could not figure out why.  I Google’d the crap out of “squash troubleshooting” and, decided that is must bacterial wilt, although the diagnosis troubled me because my squash is spread out across four different planting beds, and I removed much of the existing soil and replaced it with different kinds of high quality compost.  For whatever reason, I completely neglected to consider the possibility it was actually a pest problem.  Even after rescuing the one baby buttercup squash and finding this ugly thing:

I just assumed that maybe a larvae worked it’s way in because the plant was on the decline…instead of what I should have assumed.  That the larvae IS the enemy.

But yesterday I had the great pleasure of meeting Susane Moua, the founder of City Backyard Farming, LLC.  In addition to getting to see the gorgeous mini-farm, I told her about my squash plight, and she dragged me over to a couple of her squash plants that looked, sadly, much like mine:

Can you see the bore in the left side of the stem???

The most obvious, sign seems to be the orange bore poop called “frass“.

My summer squash plant seems to be strong and healthy at this point, but this morning after poking around it I did find a squash bore hole:

Squash Vine Borer Information from the UMN Extension and Harvest to Table article on Squash Troubleshooting both indicate that I might be able to save the plant by cutting the stem to remove the bore(s) and hilling soil over the damage.  Hopefully that little shithead doesn’t kill the plant by the time I get home from work tonight.

After all these ugly pics, I have to add this one from this morning of a cute little pollinator working away  :)

Let the warfare begin

Okay, so I broke my own rule and decided to plant some brassicas.  I can’t help it.  They are among my favorite edibles (in addition to, well, the rest of them).  But, truly, broccoli and cauliflower just aren’t as delightful from the grocery store.  Sure, they take up a lot of space for a tiny amount of eating, but they’re sooo good and, besides, by the time they are ready to harvest I can plant some other veggies to take their place…

Well, in the past couple weeks I’ve gotten my reminder as to the ultimate reason why brassicas are annoying.  See photo, above.  Can you see the enemy?  These tiny little spawns of the devil look innocent enough, in fact, last year I thought it was just the most-adorable-thing-ever that these lovely little white butterflies were attracted to the likes of *my* garden.  How lucky.  Until I realized that their spawn are able to ravage an entire cabbage plant within a few days, and a beet plant in two days.

And the worst thing about it is that there is very little that can be done, as far as I have been able to decipher.  So, I am resigned to chasing Momma butterfly-devil away with the garden hose, and checking the plants every day to pick off the little jackasses.  Sometimes I’m lucky and find her eggs before they hatch, and CRUSH them.  Violently for effect, so she knows I mean business.

Like, a Totally Catastrophic Environmental Disaster, Man

Stop the migratory bros and dudes!

via The Onion.

Progress Report…Besides for the Boulevard, I Mean

I added a trellis and a potted lime tree to the left side of the yard.  The trellis is just a three-legged bamboo trellis, where I just used lashing to bind the poles together.  Not that I know how to, but I gave it the ol’ college try.  This eHow How to Make a Bamboo Trellis article is basically the same thing.  I also wrapped string around the three poles from the bottom to the top, so the cucumbers and climbing beans have something smaller to latch on to. 

As you can probably tell, I’m in the process of painting the lime tree pot…but I hate painting, so I’m guessing it will take a while.  That’s the same color of the cold frame I made…which is also not totally painted yet, either.

My Jesus Blueberry Bushes that I moved to the front yard did okay…with the sad, sad exception of the middle one, which passed away last week.  It was totally my fault, I kept being reckless while watering the other plants and knocked off the few tiny leaves that were there. I deeply regret this.

However, I was lucky enough to get five amazing organic heirloom tomato plants (and I am too obsessed with unique tomatoes to turn them down) and am trying to find places for them, so I guess my new black plum paste tomato is taking over the blueberry bush spot. C’est la vie.

Consider this Lesson Well-Learned

Copia tomato plant: Before.

Do not transplant tomato plants on windy days.  It does not matter that you are anxious to get things in the ground, or that the tomato plants are getting too large to fit under the grow lights or seedling pots.

Copia tomato plant: After

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